The Rolex Explorer II reference 1655. The name conjures images of rugged adventure, daring exploration, and a certain Hollywood cool. While there's no definitive proof Steve McQueen owned a specific 1655, its association with the iconic actor has cemented its place in horological history and driven its value to stratospheric heights. This article delves deep into the history, design, and enduring appeal of this legendary timepiece, exploring what makes it so desirable, and providing valuable information for collectors and enthusiasts alike.
In 1971, Rolex introduced the very first iteration of the Explorer II, the reference 1655. This was a significant moment in Rolex's history, marking a departure from their previous focus on purely elegant dress watches. The world was changing, and Rolex was adapting. The 1970s saw a burgeoning interest in exploration and adventure, a spirit reflected in the rugged and functional design of the 1655. Unlike today, where Rolex watches are often viewed as status symbols, at the time of its release, the Explorer II 1655 was aimed squarely at a niche audience: speleologists – cave explorers.
The need for a watch capable of withstanding the harsh conditions of subterranean exploration dictated the 1655's robust build and innovative features. Its large 39mm case, substantial for the time, provided ample protection for the movement. The highly legible dial, featuring oversized luminous hour markers and hands, ensured readability even in the darkest depths. But perhaps the most defining feature was the independently adjustable 24-hour hand, a crucial tool for distinguishing between day and night in the perpetual darkness of caves. This hand, along with its matching 24-hour bezel, allowed explorers to track their time accurately, even when the regular hands were obscured by debris or poor lighting. This functionality was a game-changer for subterranean exploration and significantly enhanced the safety of spelunking expeditions.
The 1655 wasn't just about functionality; it possessed a distinct aesthetic that continues to resonate today. Its matte black dial, often referred to as a "tropical" dial due to its tendency to fade and develop a unique patina over time, adds to its character and desirability. The aged lume, which often takes on a creamy, warm tone with age, further contributes to the watch's vintage charm. The combination of these features – the rugged case, the highly legible dial, and the innovative 24-hour hand – created a timepiece that was both highly practical and aesthetically pleasing.
The connection between the Rolex Explorer II 1655 and Steve McQueen is largely anecdotal, fueled by photographs and rumors. While there’s no documented proof McQueen owned a specific 1655, images circulating online show him wearing a watch that closely resembles the model, igniting speculation and further solidifying its legendary status. This association with the rebellious, adventurous spirit of McQueen has significantly contributed to the watch's desirability amongst collectors, transforming it into a highly sought-after grail watch.
The "Steve McQueen" association, coupled with its limited production run and inherent durability, has propelled the Rolex Explorer II 1655 to the top of many collectors' wish lists. Finding an authentic and well-preserved example is a significant undertaking, demanding thorough research and a keen eye for detail. The market is flooded with replicas and poorly restored pieces, making authentication crucial.
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